How slow is Sloe Gin really?

Last year, I was not organised enough to make my own Sloe Gin, not so this year! On Sunday, I went to the Alexandra Palace's Farmer's Market, I know it's a cheat to buy them. But to be honest I'm a city girl and only really comfortable foraging blackberries and the like. Maybe next year.

Making sloe gin is pretty quick to start and slow to finish but not laborious, think of the turtoise and the hare and you're on the right track. There's no cooking required, just patience as the sloes steep in the gin.

You will need:

-450g/1lb sloes
-225g/8oz caster sugar
-1 litre/1¾ pint gin
- A large sterilised jar or bottle
- A sterilised needle
- A funnel
- Measuring Scales

Preparation method:

-Prick the tough skin of the sloes all over with a clean needle and put in a large sterilised jar. (My advice use something that can hold atleast 2ltr with a wide neck, I didn't and may pay for that later. I used a 1 1/2ltr bottle and could only get half of the gin in the bottle so I will have to leave it alone for that first week, then transfer the whole mixture to something bigger).
-Pour the sugar in through the funnel and use the gin to wash it through the funnel spout, seal tightly and shake well.
-Store in a cool, dark cupboard and shake every other day for a week. Then shake once a week for at least two months.
-Strain the sloe gin through muslin into a sterilised bottle.

 I will be trying to update this post with photos after each shake.

 Top recipe tip to try as well:

You can make blackberry brandy in the same way, substituting blackberries for the sloes and brandy for the gin. Blackberries do not need pricking. If I have time in the next couple of weeks, I will try this tip.

TTFN

 MagpieSpirit

Dry Wipe Board

This is so easy to do that you can be done in less than ten minutes.

You will need:

-A picture frame (any shape or size you wish)
- A remnant of fabric, wallpaper or wrapping paper.
-Dry wipe marker with sponge lid


Put desired paper inside the frame, close frame and you are done. Now you can write and wipe the surface of your dry wipe board to your hearts content.

TTFN

MagpieSpirit

Plum Chilli Jam

Here's a great recipe that is good on scones, cheese, meat and toast, an all-round jam.

Ingredients :

• 1kg red plums
• 500g Preserving Sugar
• Juice of 2 Lemons
• 2 Red chillies - mild kind
• 25g butter

Step 1. Half and stone the plums.

Step 2. Finely slice the chillies. I recommend de-seeding them at this point. Use a teaspoon to scrape the seeds out. Instead of slicing, I used my kitchen scissors.

Step 3. Cook gently until the plum skins are soft.

Step 4. Mix in the sugar, stirring the pan until it has dissolved.

Step 5. Add the chillies and then bring to the boil and boil until the mixture has reached setting point.

Step 6. Add the butter and stir into the pan.

Step 7. Pot into sterilised jars, seal.

At this point you can label or boil jam in jars which creates a firmer jam, then label.

Can be eaten immediately but I recommend leaving for 2 weeks before consuming. You can leave the jars in the fridge for up to 6 months if left unopened.

TTFN

MagpieSpirit

Rosemary Gardener's Soap

Rosemary Gardener's Soap is meant to cleanse and revitalize skin and makes upto 16 bars of soap.

Ingredients:
300ml (1/2 pint) Cheap olive oil
175ml (6 1/2 fl oz) coconut oil
120ml (4 fl oz) cooled, boiled or distilled water
60g (2 oz) caustic soda (lye crystals)
1 tbsp green clay
3 tsp spirulina powder or 4 crushed spirulina tablets
1 tbsp bran, oatmeal or rolled oats
30 drops rosemary essential oil

You will also need some equipment, it's not necessary to purchase a separate set of equipment for soap making, but if you're using cooking equipment, make sure you clean everything extremely well.

-Digital kitchen scale
-Stainless steel / Enamel pot
-2 x plastic spatulas
-Thermometer that register between 38-93 degrees C (100-200 degrees F)
-Spoons / bowls for weighing / measuring
-A good-sized container for mixing the NaOH solution (this should be reserved for you soap-making only).
-Hand blender (optional)
-Plastic or wooden mould
-A little oil and greaseproof paper for lining the mould
-Blanket or large towel
-Rubber gloves
-Apron (safer still to wear old / house clothes under the apron)
-Goggles
-Cloth for cleaning up spills
-Bottle of vinegar

Step 1. Mix the olive and coconut oils in a saucepan with a whisk over a low heat until the temperature reaches 60 oC (140 oF).

To make the lye mix, pour the water into a stainless steel or glass bowl placed in a sink in case the contents froth over when you add the caustic soda. wearing protective goggles, gloves, and an apron, add the soda to the water and mix with a wooden spoon until the crystals have dissolved. Leave to cool.

Step 2. Add the the cooled lye mix to the hot oils in the saucepan and stir with a wooden spoon until well mixed. then beat with a metal whisk until the mixture reaches the consistency of thick custard so that a line is visible if drawn across the surface.

Stir in the green clay, spirulina, bran/oatmeal/rolled oats, ans essential oil.

Step 3. Pour or spoon the mix into your moulds. Cover with a cloth and leave for 24 hours. While still soft remove the soap from your mould wearing plastic gloves, and cut into bars using a knife. Arrange on trays and leave to dry out fully and harden this process is called curing and will take atleast 4 weeks. An alternative to plastic or wooden moulds, try using juice or milk cartons, pour or spoon the mixture into the cartons. Wrap the cartons in a large towel and set somewhere warm for 24 hours like the airing cupboard. The cartons will feel warm and will get hot as the mixture neutralizes and turns into soap.  To unmold your soap, peel off the cartons and cut soap into sections for hand soap. Place each bar on a wire rack in a cool, dark place to cure for 4 weeks. After 4 weeks, soap can be buffed with a cotton cloth and wrapped for gifts.

I'm always looking out for new soap recipes, so if you have any suggestions for lye solution based soaps please send them to me to try.

Mug gets a Sharpie Makeover

Today I decided to decorate a latte cup with a Sharpie marker, I have seen it on pinterest and thought that it was a cool, cheap way of jazzy up a bland white cup.


I found several different sources but the info was basically the same - use a Sharpie on a glass/porcelain/ceramic mug with the design of your choice and set it by baking it in the oven for 30-35 minutes at 180oC.

You will need:
A Sharpie marker
A cup or plate
Some design or artistic inspiration - I had to decided to use a stencil
so also needed some tape.

Going freehand and writing a quote would be cool as well.  But as I used a stencil that I had in my craft space, a cut out section from an old lampshade. Guess that not all hoarding is bad.

After picking a design and applying to your mug, follow these steps:

    Preheat your oven to 180oC degrees.
    Stand your mug up on a baking sheet, or something similar.
    Bake your mug for 30 minutes.
    Use an oven mitt to remove and let cool.

The mug looked no different, but I guess this helps the Sharpie stay on. Now it should be safe for the oven and microwave. On methods of washing, opinions are divided as to whether or not your design will make it through a dishwasher cycle, so I have written hand wash only on the bottom.

This could be a great gift idea, craft event idea or favour for a party/wedding/shower. Just buy cheap mugs (would also work on plates) from a pound shop and decorate the way you like.

Simple NoteBoard

This simple noteboard is called a Noteboard as I use no cork in the construction so you can't actually pin anything unless you have thumbs of steal.

For this projesct you will need:

Piece of board (any size you want)
Fabric
Wadding
Scissors
Staple gun and extra staples (I'm always running out of Staples)
Ribbon
Ruler or tape measure
Maker Pens

Step One:
Using your ruler or tape measure, measure your board and work out where you are going to place your ribbon. it may seem strange to workout the ribbon placement first but I find it easier to make to board. Make your marks by lining up your ruler to the board and mark on the inside edge (also makes a nice guide line when stapling your fabric and wadding).

Step Two:
Turn your board over and lay your wadding across the top (you want to make sure that you have atleast an inch overlap to staple to the back). Pull wadding round the back and staple making sure that you staple about 1cm from the edge of the board and trim excess wadding with care.

Step Three:

Repeat Step Two with your fabric. Pull wadding round the back and staple making sure that you staple about 1.5 - 2cm from the edge of the board and trim excess fabric with care. Fold the corners in and staple securly.

Step Four:
Staple Ribbon to first mark on the back of the board pull the ribbon forward across the front of the Board, diagonally and round to the back staple to next mark.

Step Five:
Repeat stapling Ribbon across the entire board until you have a series of diagonal stripes.

Step Six:
Staple Ribbon crossways now and if you are using striped ribbon (like I have) try weaving it. It adds to the look.

Step Seven:
Once the entire board is covered with the Criscrossed Ribbon, staple at each and every intersection. You can at this point use a glue gun to attach buttons or the like, I personally don't bother as the board will be covered within weeks and more irritatingly the buttons have a habit of falling off.

I hope this has inspired you, have fun!

TTFN

MagpieSpirit

Chair - Re Upholstered

Now you may not believe me but this chair cost less than £5 to do.How? You may be asking, well I found the chair by the bin (someone had actually thrown it out, no fabric ripped, no broken legs), I already owned the staple gun, the staples, the fabric and the wadding.The only thing that I needed to buy were the foam pads for the seat and back.

Despite the length of time this project took to complete it was very worthwhile and I will enjoy all the sitting and crafting I will be doing in this chair.

If you want to copy me and replicate this project you will need:

Chair or stool
Craft Knife
Bread Knife
Staple gun Staple remover (A flat head screwdriver will work but it takes longer)
Staple Gun
Staples (make sure you have plenty)
Scissors
Foam Pads for Seat (and Back if your chair has one)
Wadding
Eye Mask or Goggles
Flat Noses Pliers
Heavy duty gloves- Optional

Step One: Organise Yourself

Put on your Goggles and make sure that you have everything thing you need for the first few steps to hand.

Step two: Remove the old Fabric

Use the craft knife to cut the fabric, do this carefully as you may find that the wadding and pad underneath are reusable, although they still need to be removed. (I didn't take that time as I needed to strip back to the frame as it had been raining and I didn't want the frame to rot, at this point I left my chair skeleton to dry, hopefully you won't have to do this). While you are stripping the chair frame take time to notice how the chair was originally upholstered, take photos if necessary. I will explain why later.


Step three: Get rid of the old staples

Remove all the old staples using the staple remover and the pliers, you should probably be wearing gloves but I found it fiddly enough without wearing gloves. (My main excuse is that I'm a lady with lady sized hands and the Heavy duty gloves I have fall off if I drop my hands to my sides).  If you can't get the staple out and it's close to the surface of the wood use your staple gun and bash it down. You don't want to do this to much as it will make it difficult to staple when your re-upholstering later.
Step Four: Checking the seat

Place the seat pad on the chair and sit on it, the chair will either fill saggy or not. Mine had a little slag so removed the staples from one side of latticed straps and pulled them tighter and re stapled. When I re-checked the seat it felt great.

Step Five: Sizing and securing the seat pad

You can use a paper template made by placing it on the chair skeleton and making out the outline where the seat pad will go. As it is unlikely that the chair will be square like the pads are generally sold, use the bread knife to cut the pad, trying to cut in the downward direction only. (I have never perfected that skill so my edges were a little ragged). Use your staple gun to secure in place with a couple of staples placed just above the base of the pad no more than 1cm.

Step six: Wa Wa Wadding

Cover seat pad with the wadding making sure that the wadding covers over sides of the chair. Staple from the middle of each side, started on the right side, pulled the wadding alittle on the left, stapled, front then back. The repeating again so that all the wadding is secured across the sides evenly. Make hospital corners on the corners by folding in the fabric and ensure that you don't leave unsightly bulges. I cut all the excess wadding away once I was happy.

Step Seven: Repeat this if your chair has a back that you want to cover.

Step Eight:  It's time for the fabric

The idea is the cover the chair so it looks as professional as you can, so this is when those photos you took or the mental notes you made come in handy. Cover with your chosen fabric like with the wadding in Step Six the only difference is that you will stapling your fabric to the underside of your chair frame. Start with a few staples on each side, once you have all four sized secured in the middle, Make your hospital corners. Use your scissors, cutting  against the chair legs so vertically, then cut horizontally  about 1cm below the seat of the chair frame. The aim is the fold up these corners that sit over the legs so that they are the same height as the fabric that is stapled under the chair frame creating a beautiful continuous line. You repeat this to cover the back of the chair.

TTNF
MagpieSpirit

Homemade Pore Strips

You know those Biore pore strips you buy at your local high street chemist, about £8, for box of about 6 strips? Today I’m going to teach you how to make your own homemade pore strips courtesy of http://petitelefant.com/how-to-pore-strips/


Ingredients:
•    1 Tablespoon Unflavoured Gelatine
•    1 1/2- 2 Tablespoons Milk (any kind) but I used semi-skimmed which works fine.
From these 2 ingredients, your pores will look like magic.  What’s not to love?

1.    Measure 1 Tablespoon of unflavoured gelatine into a disposable container (if you put say, green jelly on your face, there might be trouble, also use a disposable container, I didn't spent a long time trying to get the glass clean).
2.    Add 1-2 Tablespoons of milk into the gelatine
3.    Until it looks like... well snort
4.    Mix it up, and be quick, until you get a chunky consistency (snort like.  Add more milk if you’re uncomfortable with the amount of chunk.
Microwave the gelatine for about 10-15 seconds.  It will get creamier in the microwave.  Stir that around and start applying it IMMEDIATELY to your nose/face and as evenly as possible.  This stuff hardens up fast so you’ve got to act fast.
Wash your face before you apply.

I chose to put the stuff all over my face because I wanted to.  You can put it wherever your desire, but you need to act fast as this stuff turns to gelatine pronto.

Let it dry for about 15+ minutes.  I waited a lot longer, got distracted by the TV, but you’ll know it’s time when you can’t talk or smile.

Grab whatever you can and start peeling.  This is the gross/fun part.

It’s a good thing you can’t see the photo all that well.  Do this until you’re all peeled and your face will feel like a baby’s bottom, and you won't be able to stop touching it.

Clean, practically hairless, with clean, dirt-free pores.

TTFN

Glass Jar Project - Lavender Bath Soak

Glass Jar Project - Lavender Bath Soak

So I've recently found a fabulous blog called The Spotted Fox, and it gave me idea about what to do with my ever growing collection of glass jars, that I haven't used. Let the Glass Jars Project begin:

Lavender Bath Soak - (thanks for the inspiration Spotted Fox.)

This is relaxing and soothing way to end the day.

What you’ll need:

-1 part Bicarbonate of Soda
-5 parts Epsom Salts
-1 part dried Lavender Flowers
-5-10 drops Lavender Essential Oil

* Mix all ingredients together by pouring into a large container/a zip-lock baggy and shake, shake, SHAKE. I used a zip-lock baggy.

* Store in your chosen jar

* Tie on some pretty yarn around the jar neck and give as a handmade gift to yourself (if your feeling generous give away as a gift), I'm keeping this one so I didn't beau-ti-fi the jar too much

* Add a few spoonfuls to your next bath, if like me you plan to keep it!

Enjoy

Mother's Day Pamper Zone

One of the things that my mother had been wanting to do was have a  bit of a pamper in the form of a facial, so that was what she got today. By candlelight and jazz music softely playing in the background.

Step 1 - Remove makeup. (Standard cleansing wipes)
Step 2 - Steam face to open the pores. (Home Facial Steamer - I got mine from Agros) Massage hands and arms with almond oil and creams.
Step 3 - Apply the Sauna Mask. (Standard Mask bought from a high street pharmacy)
Step 4 - Remove the Mask and moisturise skin.

The whole pampering did involve a bit of step up and clean up, but  overall was a storming success in the mother pleasing scales.

Try it next year or if you aren't based in the UK, try it out when it comes up. Dad's might even like it for Father's Day.

DIY Teacup Candle Making

These candles make unique gifts for a Mother's Day, Birthdays or Weddings and can even be used to add that special touch to special ocassions. To make candles in containers you'll need to use special container wax that won't pull away from the sides as it cools. Soy wax is kinder to the environment and it's much easier to clean up, but reusing partially burned candles is also an enviromental option. Any utensils you use can be washed simply with hot soapy water or put in the dishwasher, when you use Soy wax.

What you'll need

* Teacup, pot or jar

* Flaked soy wax (£3.85 for 500g at The Make Lounge) or partially burned candles (if you want to go down the reuse, recycle route)

* Eco wicks (£2.00 for 5 at The Make Lounge)

* Double boiler or two saucepans that fit on top of each other

* Cooking thermometer

* Two pencils/ wooden skewers (to support wicks per Teacup, pot or Jar)

* Fragrance oils (from £1 a bottle) if you want to scent your candle

*Tongs (to pick out the old wicks)

How it's done

1 Pour your flaked wax/partially burned candles into a double boiler or a pan placed on top of another pan of water. You can work out how much wax you'll need by filling the teacup with water and weighing it, but I like trying the game of guessing. Melt the wax, heating to 165°C to 185°C. Add scented oils if using. The ratio of fragrance to wax is eight per cent, but do weigh it as some oils are heavier than others. Mix in the oil using a metal whisk.

2 Place the wick in the centre of the cup. It will come fixed to a metal disc enabling it to stand up. Wicks come in various sizes and the one you need will depend on the width of your container. Most suppliers will have a size guide.

3 Once you've melted the wax, slowly pour it into the teacup, filling it to the top. You should have some wax left over - you'll need this for the second pour. Hold the wick in the centre by placing it between two pencils balanced across the cup.

4 Once the candle is completely cool to the touch (about one hour), do your second pour. Wax shrinks as it cools so a crevice will develop in the centre. Heat the leftover wax to 10°C hotter than the first time and stir again for a couple of minutes. The wax needs to be hotter when you top up the container as this will give you a nice smooth surface once it's cooled.

5 Leave the candle to cool and harden thoroughly and then trim the wick to 1cm before lighting.

TTFN

MagpieSpirit

Chiyogami Paper Lavender Envelopes - Tutorial

This is my first tutorial and my full thanks go to Martha Stewart for the idea and direction.

1. I would suggest you make your own pattern, for two reasons. First, it's just more personal and second there is nothing worse than the pattern not looking like you want it to.

2. Paper choice - Chiyogami paper is excellent for crafting and is generally available in craft and art shops, but I'm bias because I love the stuff. On a more even note patterned paper can also be used and should work just fine.

3. Draw or trace your template pattern onto your selected paper.

4. Carefully!! Cut out your envelope - I'm a stickler for sharp folded edges, so if you're like me I would suggest that you fold and gently press along internal seams.

5. With a glue stick, seal the seams.

6. Fill the envelope with Lavender or as Martha suggests ... blends of scented ingredients, like the following combinations: cedar tips, cedar shavings, and lavender; orange tea and dried roses; and lemon verbena, chamomile and dried lemon peel. (Vary the amount depending on the envelope size; we used 1 tablespoon in the gift-card envelope.)

7. With a glue stick, seal the envelope.

8. With a thick pin, punch holes through the envelope until there are enough to release the scent, I followed the design on the envelop to mask the holes.

9. Poke whimsical designs in your paper envelopes and then add your choice of aromatic blends.