Rosemary Gardener's Soap

Rosemary Gardener's Soap is meant to cleanse and revitalize skin and makes upto 16 bars of soap.

Ingredients:
300ml (1/2 pint) Cheap olive oil
175ml (6 1/2 fl oz) coconut oil
120ml (4 fl oz) cooled, boiled or distilled water
60g (2 oz) caustic soda (lye crystals)
1 tbsp green clay
3 tsp spirulina powder or 4 crushed spirulina tablets
1 tbsp bran, oatmeal or rolled oats
30 drops rosemary essential oil

You will also need some equipment, it's not necessary to purchase a separate set of equipment for soap making, but if you're using cooking equipment, make sure you clean everything extremely well.

-Digital kitchen scale
-Stainless steel / Enamel pot
-2 x plastic spatulas
-Thermometer that register between 38-93 degrees C (100-200 degrees F)
-Spoons / bowls for weighing / measuring
-A good-sized container for mixing the NaOH solution (this should be reserved for you soap-making only).
-Hand blender (optional)
-Plastic or wooden mould
-A little oil and greaseproof paper for lining the mould
-Blanket or large towel
-Rubber gloves
-Apron (safer still to wear old / house clothes under the apron)
-Goggles
-Cloth for cleaning up spills
-Bottle of vinegar

Step 1. Mix the olive and coconut oils in a saucepan with a whisk over a low heat until the temperature reaches 60 oC (140 oF).

To make the lye mix, pour the water into a stainless steel or glass bowl placed in a sink in case the contents froth over when you add the caustic soda. wearing protective goggles, gloves, and an apron, add the soda to the water and mix with a wooden spoon until the crystals have dissolved. Leave to cool.

Step 2. Add the the cooled lye mix to the hot oils in the saucepan and stir with a wooden spoon until well mixed. then beat with a metal whisk until the mixture reaches the consistency of thick custard so that a line is visible if drawn across the surface.

Stir in the green clay, spirulina, bran/oatmeal/rolled oats, ans essential oil.

Step 3. Pour or spoon the mix into your moulds. Cover with a cloth and leave for 24 hours. While still soft remove the soap from your mould wearing plastic gloves, and cut into bars using a knife. Arrange on trays and leave to dry out fully and harden this process is called curing and will take atleast 4 weeks. An alternative to plastic or wooden moulds, try using juice or milk cartons, pour or spoon the mixture into the cartons. Wrap the cartons in a large towel and set somewhere warm for 24 hours like the airing cupboard. The cartons will feel warm and will get hot as the mixture neutralizes and turns into soap.  To unmold your soap, peel off the cartons and cut soap into sections for hand soap. Place each bar on a wire rack in a cool, dark place to cure for 4 weeks. After 4 weeks, soap can be buffed with a cotton cloth and wrapped for gifts.

I'm always looking out for new soap recipes, so if you have any suggestions for lye solution based soaps please send them to me to try.

Mug gets a Sharpie Makeover

Today I decided to decorate a latte cup with a Sharpie marker, I have seen it on pinterest and thought that it was a cool, cheap way of jazzy up a bland white cup.


I found several different sources but the info was basically the same - use a Sharpie on a glass/porcelain/ceramic mug with the design of your choice and set it by baking it in the oven for 30-35 minutes at 180oC.

You will need:
A Sharpie marker
A cup or plate
Some design or artistic inspiration - I had to decided to use a stencil
so also needed some tape.

Going freehand and writing a quote would be cool as well.  But as I used a stencil that I had in my craft space, a cut out section from an old lampshade. Guess that not all hoarding is bad.

After picking a design and applying to your mug, follow these steps:

    Preheat your oven to 180oC degrees.
    Stand your mug up on a baking sheet, or something similar.
    Bake your mug for 30 minutes.
    Use an oven mitt to remove and let cool.

The mug looked no different, but I guess this helps the Sharpie stay on. Now it should be safe for the oven and microwave. On methods of washing, opinions are divided as to whether or not your design will make it through a dishwasher cycle, so I have written hand wash only on the bottom.

This could be a great gift idea, craft event idea or favour for a party/wedding/shower. Just buy cheap mugs (would also work on plates) from a pound shop and decorate the way you like.

Simple NoteBoard

This simple noteboard is called a Noteboard as I use no cork in the construction so you can't actually pin anything unless you have thumbs of steal.

For this projesct you will need:

Piece of board (any size you want)
Fabric
Wadding
Scissors
Staple gun and extra staples (I'm always running out of Staples)
Ribbon
Ruler or tape measure
Maker Pens

Step One:
Using your ruler or tape measure, measure your board and work out where you are going to place your ribbon. it may seem strange to workout the ribbon placement first but I find it easier to make to board. Make your marks by lining up your ruler to the board and mark on the inside edge (also makes a nice guide line when stapling your fabric and wadding).

Step Two:
Turn your board over and lay your wadding across the top (you want to make sure that you have atleast an inch overlap to staple to the back). Pull wadding round the back and staple making sure that you staple about 1cm from the edge of the board and trim excess wadding with care.

Step Three:

Repeat Step Two with your fabric. Pull wadding round the back and staple making sure that you staple about 1.5 - 2cm from the edge of the board and trim excess fabric with care. Fold the corners in and staple securly.

Step Four:
Staple Ribbon to first mark on the back of the board pull the ribbon forward across the front of the Board, diagonally and round to the back staple to next mark.

Step Five:
Repeat stapling Ribbon across the entire board until you have a series of diagonal stripes.

Step Six:
Staple Ribbon crossways now and if you are using striped ribbon (like I have) try weaving it. It adds to the look.

Step Seven:
Once the entire board is covered with the Criscrossed Ribbon, staple at each and every intersection. You can at this point use a glue gun to attach buttons or the like, I personally don't bother as the board will be covered within weeks and more irritatingly the buttons have a habit of falling off.

I hope this has inspired you, have fun!

TTFN

MagpieSpirit

Chair - Re Upholstered

Now you may not believe me but this chair cost less than £5 to do.How? You may be asking, well I found the chair by the bin (someone had actually thrown it out, no fabric ripped, no broken legs), I already owned the staple gun, the staples, the fabric and the wadding.The only thing that I needed to buy were the foam pads for the seat and back.

Despite the length of time this project took to complete it was very worthwhile and I will enjoy all the sitting and crafting I will be doing in this chair.

If you want to copy me and replicate this project you will need:

Chair or stool
Craft Knife
Bread Knife
Staple gun Staple remover (A flat head screwdriver will work but it takes longer)
Staple Gun
Staples (make sure you have plenty)
Scissors
Foam Pads for Seat (and Back if your chair has one)
Wadding
Eye Mask or Goggles
Flat Noses Pliers
Heavy duty gloves- Optional

Step One: Organise Yourself

Put on your Goggles and make sure that you have everything thing you need for the first few steps to hand.

Step two: Remove the old Fabric

Use the craft knife to cut the fabric, do this carefully as you may find that the wadding and pad underneath are reusable, although they still need to be removed. (I didn't take that time as I needed to strip back to the frame as it had been raining and I didn't want the frame to rot, at this point I left my chair skeleton to dry, hopefully you won't have to do this). While you are stripping the chair frame take time to notice how the chair was originally upholstered, take photos if necessary. I will explain why later.


Step three: Get rid of the old staples

Remove all the old staples using the staple remover and the pliers, you should probably be wearing gloves but I found it fiddly enough without wearing gloves. (My main excuse is that I'm a lady with lady sized hands and the Heavy duty gloves I have fall off if I drop my hands to my sides).  If you can't get the staple out and it's close to the surface of the wood use your staple gun and bash it down. You don't want to do this to much as it will make it difficult to staple when your re-upholstering later.
Step Four: Checking the seat

Place the seat pad on the chair and sit on it, the chair will either fill saggy or not. Mine had a little slag so removed the staples from one side of latticed straps and pulled them tighter and re stapled. When I re-checked the seat it felt great.

Step Five: Sizing and securing the seat pad

You can use a paper template made by placing it on the chair skeleton and making out the outline where the seat pad will go. As it is unlikely that the chair will be square like the pads are generally sold, use the bread knife to cut the pad, trying to cut in the downward direction only. (I have never perfected that skill so my edges were a little ragged). Use your staple gun to secure in place with a couple of staples placed just above the base of the pad no more than 1cm.

Step six: Wa Wa Wadding

Cover seat pad with the wadding making sure that the wadding covers over sides of the chair. Staple from the middle of each side, started on the right side, pulled the wadding alittle on the left, stapled, front then back. The repeating again so that all the wadding is secured across the sides evenly. Make hospital corners on the corners by folding in the fabric and ensure that you don't leave unsightly bulges. I cut all the excess wadding away once I was happy.

Step Seven: Repeat this if your chair has a back that you want to cover.

Step Eight:  It's time for the fabric

The idea is the cover the chair so it looks as professional as you can, so this is when those photos you took or the mental notes you made come in handy. Cover with your chosen fabric like with the wadding in Step Six the only difference is that you will stapling your fabric to the underside of your chair frame. Start with a few staples on each side, once you have all four sized secured in the middle, Make your hospital corners. Use your scissors, cutting  against the chair legs so vertically, then cut horizontally  about 1cm below the seat of the chair frame. The aim is the fold up these corners that sit over the legs so that they are the same height as the fabric that is stapled under the chair frame creating a beautiful continuous line. You repeat this to cover the back of the chair.

TTNF
MagpieSpirit

Is it ever to early the plan for Christmas?

Not if it's going to be a Homemade Christmas and with less than 25 weekends to the best day of the year.

The plan for this year so far are to make soaps, flavoured oils, flavoured vodka, sloe gin, sweet and savory jams as they all require time to mature, to give as gifts. Look out for recipes, links and tutorials as I gear up for the festivities.

TTFN,

MagpieSpirit